湯浅【2】あせ寿司 ― 2013年10月29日 14時57分
玉井醤を出て街を…それもなるべく路地を選んでぶらぶら歩いておりますと、古い店構えの料理屋さんを見かけました。暖簾には「横楠」と染め抜かれています。和歌山で「○楠」と言えばなんといっても南方熊楠だよなぁ、やっぱり「○楠」って云う命名があるんかな?などと思いつつ、お店を眺めておりますと、張り紙に「あせ寿司」と書いてあります。
「ほほう、なにかねぇこれは」とみてみますと、笹寿しのような感じ。どうしようかな、買って帰ろうかな、でもなんだか中は忙しそうだし…と思って再び歩き出しますと、目の前の石材店の店先に座って居られたお婆さんに呼び止められました。
なんですか?と尋ねてみると、そこのお店は一見高そうだけれどそんなことはないし、親切だし料理も美味しいので、お寿司でも買っていったらどう?とのこと。おお、すじ向かいのお婆さんが云うならこりゃ間違いなかろう、しかしなんだか今日は玉井醤と言いお婆さんに縁があるなぁと思いながら、お勧めに従って再び「横楠」の暖簾を押し分けて来訪を告げましたら、あんのじょう忙しそう。しまったかなーと思いながらも「あせ寿司の持ち帰りできますか?と尋ねますと大きな声で「あせ寿司できますかー」と奥の厨房へ訊いてくれました。奥から「できますよー!」とこれまた大きな声で返事が。
そんな訳で、あせ寿司を6ケ買いました。さっきのお婆さんに「姐さん!買いましたよー」と怒鳴るように(かなりお耳が遠い様子)ご報告。お婆さんご機嫌で、「おいしいよぉ」とお墨付きをくれました。そしてまた真夏のような日差しに炙られながら、路地から路地へと、あせ寿司の袋をぶらぶらさせながら歩き始めました。
あせ寿司は、まぁ柿の葉寿司とか笹寿しとか朴葉ずしなどなどと同じように、ラップ材に「あせ(暖竹)」の葉を使った早寿司…つまりなれ寿司ではないもの…だそうです。特段のことはありませんが、柿の葉寿司みたいに載っかっている鯖が小さく向こうが見えそうなくらいに薄いなどということはなく適度な厚みもあり、いけました。このお店、ご飯が大変良く出来ていてとくにそれが美味しかったですねぇ。
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